Twinkle By Wenlan

As the spring season approaches, more and more knitters who love quick knits ask me how we can adapt chunky for spring. My answers are two: use yarns of good drape and find patterns with a lacy effect.

There are many wonderful silk, linen and cotton yarn available to knit spring sweaters. I like to work with those that have good yardage and great drape feel. I choose designs that are not too close to the body, making it optimal for layering. For example, a scooped neck tank top with low armholes or a ¾ sleeve wrap cardigan are versatile to wear as layering pieces. Pair them with silk dresses to wear for a cool night, or with shorts for an early Sunday walk. I like these throw-on pieces as they modernize knits. Choosing good quality yarn is the key. I prefer silk yarn as these thrown-on pieces can almost work as an accessory. They work as part of your travel wardrobe and makes an ideal complement to a dinner look. The Pacifica Jacket from Town & Country Knits and Chelsea Sweater from Big City Knits are my favorites.

For a pattern with a lacy effect, there are many tricks to play with. You can use lighter weight spring/summer yarn to knit a winter chunky pattern. Since the yarn gauge is not equivalent to the needle, you will end up with a very loosely structured sweater. Choose a design that will look stylish to wear super slouchy. When you knit it with a soft drape yarn, you will have an artsy piece - you knit this piece in a chunky method yet end up with a light weight wardrobe addition perfect for spring instead! Some minor adjustment might be needed, such as using one size smaller needle and shortening the length. But overall, I love the look of wearing a bigger sized, “thin” sweater. Another more traditional way to do the lacy effect is to choose a pattern that has an open work stitch. I very much like the common “feather and fan” pattern - knit 2 together 4 times and yarn over 4 times. Or simply add a crochet edge to create that breezy feeling. The Sexy Seaside Sweater and Feather Scarf from Big City Knits are some of my suggestions.

Wenlan

Chesapeake Charm School Cardigan and Big Sur Cardigan from twinkle’s Town and Country Knits

After twelve seasons at Bryant Park, I took Twinkle’s Fall 2009 fashion show to an off site location for only the second time. I almost forgot how efficient and productive it is showing at the tents, and our show this season went through quite some dramatic moments. On the way home after the show was over, my mind flashed through a few unforgettable, and then felt-to-be some truly unfashionable moments in my career.

On top of the list is most people’s favorite, which happened during my second year in business when I first sold my collection to the major department stores. The shipment was held at US Customs for inspection, a very common procedure, yet it nearly caused me to have a total breakdown - the shipment was very delayed. Sitting by myself in my office above a gallery on 26th Street, I made repeated phone calls between the custom brokage agent, the trucking company and the US Customs office to no avail. Eventually out of complete despair, I called Senator Hillary Clinton’s office at 2PM, knowing that Barney’s truck was on their way to pick up at 5PM. Ms. Clinton’s assistant asked me to fax them all information and told me, “we have not received requests like this before but we will give it a try”. Guess what? The shipment was released and made it to the pick up. I don’t know if it’s because the phone call worked or the shipment was miraculously released, yet it was definitely amazing that the Senator’s office was so willing to help. I’ve told this story a few times and still hope they didn’t go out of their way to handle a young designer’s button and zipper problems.

My first fashion show was a three designer group show sponsored by Gen Art. It was the first time I ever did a show. The truck driver was late and showed up drunk. My collection only arrived at Bryant Park one hour before the show.  I had all my friends, plus the interns, be dressers. The biggest challenge for me was to tear off the first model’s shoes quickly and put them on the last model – and with only 11 looks then, every fraction of a second counted. Tragedy was bound to happen. Girls went out not according to program and there was about 10 seconds when the runway was empty. I cried when the show was over, while guests came backstage to congratulate (or was it to console?) me. Later, I watched the show video and discovered one of the designers had a dog walked out with one of the models, and this dog went to bathroom on the runway. “How lucky I was to be the first designer to show”, I told myself - you always have to look at the bright side in the fashion business.

I can regale you with so many tales of behind-the-scenes mishap.  There was a time when I realized a pair of gloves were missing only 45 minutes before the show. My design assistant rushed back to the studio to fetch them, returning only to find that the glove-less model was just about to step out onto the runway. The assistant, wanting to complete her mission, almost tackled the model to give her the gloves. She was fortunately stopped.  Once a model overslept and was escorted by her booker 15 minutes before the show, crying frantically with yesterday’s hair still gelled. Another time the electricity shorted for five seconds during the show. I stood in the dark backstage and nearly fainted. Once the stereo was not working when we sent out the first look. And two shows ago, 15 pairs of shoes arrived from London only 35 minutes before the show.

The other day I met someone who used to work in the fashion industry for a well established designer. After many years, he finally decided he should be a real estate broker. I asked him why. He said that a few seasons ago, 48 hours before a fashion show, he, responsible for million dollar sales, was sent to Milan to pick up a belt at the airport to bring back for the show. He said to himself, something was wrong. I did not ask him, however sorely tempted, how he felt now with what is happening in the real estate market. Isn’t something even more seriously wrong?!

I’ve always said that my clothes are for women who do not take fashion too seriously, who are up for an adventure, who have a sense of humor when it comes to fashion. These dramatic moments are flawed and unglamorous, yet make for some of the most wonderful memories.  I am already anticipating next season…

Wenlan

Twinkle’s first runway show, fall 2003

When Wenlan told me that we would be using 35 models for our show, I thought to myself, “Ok, it sounds like a large number but I can make it work.”   Little did I know what was ahead of me.   To hire 35 models, we had to see over 100+ models during our 3-day casting period.  Alright, so that part was not too bad.  We had beautiful girls come in and out of the office all day, took pictures of them, had them walk, and maybe try on a few looks.   What happened in the next couple of days after the model casting, however, was a whirlwind, to put it mildly.  With only literally days to go before the show, I had to negotiate with 7 different modeling agencies to get the exact models we wanted, while making sure that they could come in for a fitting (coordinating with the models’ 10,000 castings), book a hair/makeup test run using a girl that was representative of our “look,” all the while staying within a certain budget AND competing for them with DVF,Y3, and Herve Leger!
In those 3-4 days, I learned so much about how to speak the language of model bookers “Dahhling, let’s drink champagne~ Kiss-Kiss!” to get what I wanted.  I also realized, once again, that having a sense of humor goes a long way.  One booker and I became instant best friends when we joked around during a phone call.  We were negotiating a deal when I said something like, “Well, since we are using some of your newer girls this season, I think you can give us some of your bigger girls.”  She then said, “Wait, you don’t mean “big” as in “fat” right?”  Then, we both started laughing uncontrollably when I said, “Yes, we will be using whales for our show.”  I know it sounds mean but we were so stressed out and tired even the most ridiculous sounded funny.  After all the negotiations were over, she invited me to come to her agency’s party at 1 Oak to celebrate with the models and bookers.  We saw some of our models there and they were so cute because they wanted pictures with us!  I thought it would be the other way around.  We also ran into a girl that we unbooked last minute and was wary of how she would react.  However, when she saw us she was super sweet and gave us a warm greeting.
Despite all the stress, last minute emergencies, and chaos, when I saw all the models lined up backstage before the show started, I had a moment to myself where I thought, “I did it!”  Then, my moment was broken by someone from La Force and Stevens yelling into the radio about editors arriving and having to start the show.

Juliette with her new friends at the party!

The show was almost about to start and I was in charge of making sure not one of our 36 models were sans makeup and hair. Running around crazily in 3 inch grey patent heels, out of the corner of my eye I see a very cute girl talking to someone. I turned to look and all of a sudden I found myself screaming “OMG IT’S NELLY YUKI!!!”  Being a major addict to GossipGirl, I couldn’t believe my eyes; one of my favorite characters of the show was standing right in front of me.  Nelly Yuki who is really Yin Chang, couldn’t be more sweet and gracious after a random stranger screamed her moniker in a public setting, which I apologized for right afterwards.  Though I would’ve loved to sit down and hear her life story, I had to go back to hunting for models. When the show was over, I found my favorite Gossipgirl in the waiting lounge with whom I had a lovely conversation with and found out we were in fact the same age. Soon later, many of our guests who were also fans of Yin, were also having their mind blown with her presence and couldn’t wait to have their pictures taken with her. Yin had to leave a little bit afterwards but I couldn’t have felt more stoked to have met her.

Dina

Dina with Yin at Twinkle’s show

Actually, I didn’t even sleep well the day before the show. I was so excited. I got a Twinkle navy dress, a jacket and a necklace. They were my first Twinkle items. I loved them.

I should go there by 1:30pm. When I arrived at the car club, there are several classic cars. I imagined that 1950’s adorable Twinkle modern girls with classic cars. It was cool.

Makeup professionals and models were coming, and they started to be busy. Everything was really fast and professional. Models were changed to be perfect for the fashion show.

My duty ; I was responsible for the drinks.
There were many kinds of drinks; Water, coffee, coke, champagne and white wine. Especially, wine and champagne needed to be chilled. We put them to the ice box. And then, we set up the tables. People started to come to see the show around 5pm. We opened wines. I like to open the wine. It always has good smell and sound to refresh my mind when it opens. After people got some drinks, they were ready to watch the fashion show.

The fashion show was started. People went to see the runway as close as possible. I also went to there, but there were so many people already.
I couldn’t see it well. However, I could feel the energy of the show.
There were black and white movie at the background, and models appeared in my eyesight. I was so exhilarated. It was more than going to club on the Friday night. The show lasted about half an hour, and I came back to the drinks. I served leftover drinks to people after the show. I saw their faces, and all of them were smiling. They told me like that they really enjoyed the show.

It was first time to take part in the fashion show for me. It was sooo great! I never forget the experience.

Moon

Models at the Show

“Doctor, I think I am invisible.”
“Who said that?”

I felt like an invisible person after our fashion show. There were many people who said to me, “The show was fabulous, but I didn’t see you. Were you there?” Yes, I was there!! All the time!!

It only dawned on me a couple of day later – all these people saw me, they just didn’t know it was me. Why? I changed my hair color. I am a blonde now.  I became one of the fragile creatures who can widen their eyes in bewilderment when you tell them how to copy and paste in Excel, to whom any man offers help with the smallest of shopping bags, and who can get the bartender’s attention just by flicking her eyelashes… or maybe not. I think I will stay the exception to the rule.

Eva

The Invisible Eva

Last Thursday, we had our post-fashion-show party at Goldbar, marking an end to a great fashion week.  Being only my second fashion week in New York, it was such a fantastic experience, followed by the ultimate reward.  At this very chic and intimate setting, we found ourselves sitting side by side with editors, journalists, and a vast array of the “in” crowd of New York.  While a couple other interns and I were checking names at the door, guests sipped on champagne as well as other delicious beverages.  The hit of the night was our very own Twinkle Crisp.  This tangy concoction was just the right cocktail to get the party started and induce great conversation.  Although the party was short, it was definitely sweet.  And even though fashion week is sadly over, there’s always September.  There has been a lot of talk about optimism this season, and we can only hope that it gets better and better next season, but who wants to think about the economy when you can have a great drink with great friends?

-Josh

The Polish Goldbar

Until the last second the show starts, the back stage was very very busy and was under tremendous pressure.
Its peak started 4 days before the show, non stop until the last moment.
Fitting 36 girls in 4 days… no time for anything but giving girls outfits and photograph them.
The last thing I concern was how I looked and what to eat.
The great consequences came after. Looking 36 girls standing wearing Twinkle and neon orange lip stick, was just glamorous and absolutely spectacular.
I was walking around and guess what I found… pop corn and coke! Having not eating properly for last 4 days, I ate so much I couldn’t even remember. Anyone couldn’t get pop corn that day, don’t blame on me. I just followed the natural human need.

Sayumi

Sayumi with the empty popcorn cart

With the fast approaching fashion week, the short days included constantly tracking samples, yelling at TNT customer service while our packages were held in customs, fitting, styling, and watching a slew of ladies come in for casting. But to maintain the level of sanity and team spirit in the office we decided to hold a fashion week potluck. Everyone brought in their favorite dishes and I brought in my oh-so-secretive toffee treat. Though the potluck was not to start till lunch Yuki a.k.a the graphic designer with the veracious appetite insisted on eating the toffee treat as soon as she came in. Once she started she couldn’t stop. By noon she had devoured a good handful so I had to intervene and slow her down. I warned her, “BE CAREFUL something bad may happen!” By late afternoon and about 20 toffee treats later I could hear her yelling in the back office.  Startled by her sudden outburst we all asked her what happened. She sadly mopped that her GIGANTIC filling fell out while eating a toffee treat! A harsh lesson learned, but a memorable fashion week moment for the rest of the staff.

Joanna

Yuki with the very scary filling.

I was so excited when I was asked to be an intern at Twinkle. I love the fun, easy, and wearable pieces they create; they just make fashion fun.
When I started in January it was right before fashion week so the office was a buzz with preparation. I’ve worked in other studios, but never for a company that presented during fashion week. I couldn’t believe the immense amount of work that goes into a fashion show.

I had the opportunity to help with the chunky knits that Twinkle is famous for. I hand knit all the hats that were in the fashion presentation. It was a lot of work that involved knitting, de-knitting, and re-knitting some of the hats until they were the correct length and pattern. I’ve always loved hand knitting and am so excited that I got see my hand work in a fashion show. I worked right up to the last minute on the hats and my work paid off when I saw the images from the show on WWD.com.

I’m truly enjoying the office atmosphere here at Twinkle and can’t wait to see what the following months hold for me here!

Annalise

Model with Twinkle’s Dune Basket Case Hat made by Annalise