Twinkle By Wenlan

I started knitting late in my life. I approached it from a pure design angle. Later, especially after I published knitting books, I started seeing the cultural side of it. Its grass-root-meet-conceptual art character fascinates and surprises me every now and then.

I recently read about Sarah Hardacre, 31, from Salford, Manchester, who with helpers knitted a sweater for a bus! I can imagine the fun they had while making the “bus cover”!
This project reminds me of Isabel Berglund who knitted a room. There is gigantic mushroom, bee’s wings and trees, all knitted in the knitted room. (http://www.isabelberglund.dk/) I want to visit this knitted wonderland when I visit Copenhagen, Denmark. Christien Meindertsma, an artist/designer from Netherlands who made “one sheep cardigan” where each cardigan is made with yarn from one sheep. (http://www.christienmeindertsma.com/) Each cardigan is numbered and tagged with the sheep’s picture. The cardigan is not a product but has its own life here.

I looked at the first knitting project I devoted myself to- a yellow asymmetrical tunic dress mixed with clear vinyl tube and wool/polyester yarn, its alien existence is what attracted me to this business in the place. It’s that little bit quirky and unreal approach to clothes that intrigues me. Obviously running a business is the most realistic thing. But I’m happy that my first creation is something from the similar sphere of Isabel’s wonderland, a place we can all be child again.

Wenlan

Knitted Bus

As the spring season approaches, more and more knitters who love quick knits ask me how we can adapt chunky for spring. My answers are two: use yarns of good drape and find patterns with a lacy effect.

There are many wonderful silk, linen and cotton yarn available to knit spring sweaters. I like to work with those that have good yardage and great drape feel. I choose designs that are not too close to the body, making it optimal for layering. For example, a scooped neck tank top with low armholes or a ¾ sleeve wrap cardigan are versatile to wear as layering pieces. Pair them with silk dresses to wear for a cool night, or with shorts for an early Sunday walk. I like these throw-on pieces as they modernize knits. Choosing good quality yarn is the key. I prefer silk yarn as these thrown-on pieces can almost work as an accessory. They work as part of your travel wardrobe and makes an ideal complement to a dinner look. The Pacifica Jacket from Town & Country Knits and Chelsea Sweater from Big City Knits are my favorites.

For a pattern with a lacy effect, there are many tricks to play with. You can use lighter weight spring/summer yarn to knit a winter chunky pattern. Since the yarn gauge is not equivalent to the needle, you will end up with a very loosely structured sweater. Choose a design that will look stylish to wear super slouchy. When you knit it with a soft drape yarn, you will have an artsy piece - you knit this piece in a chunky method yet end up with a light weight wardrobe addition perfect for spring instead! Some minor adjustment might be needed, such as using one size smaller needle and shortening the length. But overall, I love the look of wearing a bigger sized, “thin” sweater. Another more traditional way to do the lacy effect is to choose a pattern that has an open work stitch. I very much like the common “feather and fan” pattern - knit 2 together 4 times and yarn over 4 times. Or simply add a crochet edge to create that breezy feeling. The Sexy Seaside Sweater and Feather Scarf from Big City Knits are some of my suggestions.

Wenlan

Chesapeake Charm School Cardigan and Big Sur Cardigan from twinkle’s Town and Country Knits

People who are familiar with my knitting books or attend my knitting workshops are usually curious at my choice of casting on method.  Unless a trim will be added later on to the base row, I almost make no exception but to do cable casting on. “Why?” People ask.

Besides the obvious advantage - it is “steady”, has a thick, loop-based edge, provides enough stretch - I rather like the resemblance to that of a sweater made on a knitting machine.

“Why do you like hand knits to look machinery?” Hand knitters almost scream.

That’s the moment I remember why I design the clothes I do. I love machine-made, affordable clothes to have artsy, crafty details and handmade clothes to have a unified “factory” look.

Before I started my own line, my favorite pastime was shopping at flea markets and second hand stores.  My treasured finds include a cream Chanel suit from 1950, a 40 year-old black Balenciaga dress, and an Yves Saint Laurent shirt dress.  I take to examining the garment inside out and truly appreciate the handiwork and attention to details.  I also have accumulated tons of no name vintage finds with holes in the lining, broken zippers, and several skirts that feel un-hemmed.  I like these vibrant clothes.  I find common sense intelligence and vivid creativity in these label-less middle class vintage.  They remind me of all these beautiful clothes my mom and her friends used to wear when I was young.  They also remind me of how most of my friends live their lives - they work, support themselves, and they love fashion.

When I visit the factory where Twinkle garments are produced, I am fascinated by how my chunky sweaters are made - from woolly hair fiber being combed and processed, then dyed and spun into yarn ready for knitting a sweater.  I enjoy this behind-the-scenes part as much as when I am creating a new design in my studio or presenting a new collection on the runway. They all have a similar magic quality- to make things out of thin air.

So for someone like me, to find out there is a way to cast on so a one by one rib will look completely “machinery” without a loop of the base row, I’m positively thrilled!  Exactly how will that be accomplished?  Will continue in next month’s Knitting 101…!

Wenlan

Snowcap Hat and Peony Scarf

By Wenlan

This winter is said to be a big chill. What’s warmer than making a pair of knitted gloves as a gift?  I rarely wear gloves as going out often means carrying a bag, a lap top, and a dog.  I need my fingers to be free.  So fingerless gloves are the best for keeping me warm…and cool.

These gloves are made of chunky yarn so they are very fast to knit up.  I designed them for my collection 4 years ago and had them reissued this fall.  They are also one of the most popular patterns in Twinkle’s Big City Knits as well.  I named them Flying Gloves as they went so well with a hat design I named Pilot Hat in the book.

You can get more creative by doing it in color block.  Making them in half black and half white is so quirky.  You can also do a few more rows of the wrist opening to go up over your arm. Wearing a pair of longer, chunky fingerless gloves with a ¾ sleeve coat presents such a modern feel.  And for an edgy look, make those gloves extra long and wear them all ruched down at wrist with a floral dress.

I love them just small and short.  I throw them in my bag with my sunglasses.  Sometimes when I am on my way to work, and the sun comes up really warm, I will wear my aviator sunglasses, oversized chunky sweater, laced up biker boots, ragged studded bag, and this pair of Flying Gloves.  I feel like the coolest New Yorker on her way to work, especially on those really good hair mornings…until, of course, my dog suddenly poops and I am abruptly aware of being a regular working woman in New York.

Wenlan

Flying Gloves and Pilot Hat

By Wenlan

Last week, I traveled to Austin and Dallas on a book and yarn tour. As soon as I returned to New York, I went to another knitting event Stitch’N Pitch held at a Mets game. I have been asked during this Marathon knitting week the same questions over and over that I have been asked often before: “Do you still knit?”

The truth is that I indeed do not knit even half as much as I did compared to the first 1 or 2 years when I started the business. However, after I finished the week’s knitting journey, I started knitting again. As a matter of fact, I have found no better way to put my mind at peace than with knitting.

The current political and financial turmoil is harder to endure than any stress filled days I encountered in my professional and personal life. I’m anxious, unsettled, and neurotic these days. Some of my friends exercise to release the tension. I find the little free time I have is hard to fill without feeling empty and lost. I used to be able to enjoy a good movie, cook, and read. But at this unusual time, I found tranquility only in knitting.

Knitting for me used to be a way of creating. I like to design sweaters, especially hand knits in an unconventional structure. I found it hard to follow other people’s patterns as I always make my own pattern according to my design. I was only interested in making new designs and new patterns. I have not experienced the therapeutic part of what knitting can do until Wall Street went down and the Presidential debate took place.

I have been making the Aspen hat from my first book- Twinkle’s Big City Knits. I think it is the perfect Christmas gift and plan on making one hat a day. Except for a few days where I might be too excited, laugh too much over Tina Fey, or have too much to drink that I might skip my therapy, I should be able to finish 35 some hats by Nov 4th.  That’s quite some special gifts for 35 of my dearest friends and family.

My husband takes on jogging these days, yet he still gets agitated as soon as CNN starts. I suggest he take on knitting instead. You might see him in my first knitting workshops.

Aspen Hat in Baby Pink

Being an avid knitter, I am always on the lookout for interesting patterns as well as new approaches to knitting.  I can safely say I was knitting Twinkle patterns before I knew they were Twinkle since I was drawn to the way the signature sweaters featured delicate motifs in bulky yarn.  Big yarn is simply irresistible (who has not molested a big ball of wool yet?) and being able to knit form-fitting, flattering pieces sealed the deal for me. 

It was only two summers ago, when I read a feature on Wenlan in Interweave Knits, did I go searching for her patterns and discovered that I already knitted plenty of her sweaters.  When I scored an internship in her studio, I began learning more about the craft and some of the artists and designers that make knitting so luxurious. 

I learned about artist Sandra Backlund while still at NYU.  I had knitted some bolero sweaters for a student-run fashion show and pretty soon I got all sorts of tips about the world of knitwear.  Sandra Backlund is an innovative knitwear designer and creates awe-inspiring pieces from her studio in Stockholm, Sweden.  She takes her main inspiration from the human body and each season, endeavors to highlight the female silhouette with novel forms and shapes.  Sandra is very open-ended about her craft and her experimenting leads to fresh looks, but with a timeless character.

I truly appreciate designers like Wenlan - she makes knitting so approachable…but there is something VERY appealing about knitwear that you can’t have.  You can’t buy Sandra’s work, nor find a pattern online that shows you how to knit one of her sweaters for yourself.  You simply must spend a good portion of your life ogling at her work in a magazine spread.  As a knitter, I get extremely excited when I see a sweater that I have to stop to think about. 

Where do you think this piece from Sandra’s “In No Time” collection even begins?  It’s like a long, twisting ribbon with no beginning or end- what a delightful puzzle!

While Sandra does present a collection each season, she does not focus on marketability.  Her stuff is handmade and more artistic than commercial. This fluffy yet rigid, white concoction looks spectacular, but I don’t suppose I could pull it off even in New York City!

Such artistry is what I retreat to when I need a kick of inspiration.  When I stare at my yarn stash, pondering what project to embark on, I take a look at stylish knits by Sandra, Wenlan, and even London designer Giles Deacon, known for his broomstick-handle knitted pieces.  Knitting is such a free form of expression that you simply cannot be retrained by a pattern. While I cannot say it is easy to take up a pair of needles and knit an original work of art, there is a plethora of knitting creativity all over the world such that knitting isn’t reserved for one group of individuals.  Anyone can knit and creative expression is limitless!

Make sure to check out Sandra’s current collection, “Last Breath Bruises”, in the August 2008 issue of Soma magazine.  Her website is at http://www.sandrabacklund.com.

Oct. 3, 2007 - Wenlan and I paid a visit to her alma mater tonight, holding an intimate knitting workshop event for 30 FBA members at New York University, arguably one of the trendiest campuses in the country. Whilst sipping flutes of sparkling cider, the girls (and guys!) enjoyed Twinkle’s fall 2007 Fashion Week show looped on DVD, and marveled over a trunk show of Twinkle’s latest offering in chunky knitwear – a cropped seed stitch hoodie, a dusty pink cable tunic, a cream-coloured lattice cardigan, as well as a mountain of chunky scarves and berets! 

The samples provided the right amount of motivation to embark on the evening’s project – a long, chunky merino wool scarf, complete with luxurious fringe.  After choosing a skein from one of Twinkle Handknits Soft Chunky’s new fall colours, each knitter was presented with a pair of Twinkle engraved size 19 wooden needles and a beginner-friendly Twinkle knitting guide, which provided instructions on how to cast on, make a knit stitch, and bind off. 

Wenlan began the workshop by speaking to us about how knitting played a key role in launching her whimsical, ultra-feminine label, Twinkle by Wenlan.  Fashionable knitwear, she said, was due to a comeback and she would use her skills and creativity to lead the way!  It was a very risky decision. Wenlan worked hard, from single handedly putting together dozens of her first lookbook to simultaneously meeting with investors and buyers…but the payoff was worth it!  Twinkle has consistently shown, with rave reviews, at Fashion Week and the label now includes home accessories, fine jewelry, as well as a series of popular knitting books featuring key pieces that made Twinkle a hit with knitters and fashionistas.

From the looks on faces, it was apparent that many hoped some of Wenlan’s drive and ambition would rub off onto them - at least to get through the evening’s workshop. 

Patience and excellent demonstration (provided by yours truly) quickly turned rocky starts into smooth sailing, with many beginning knitters completing more than half their scarf by the end of the night.  Concentrated silence was shattered as knitters picked up the process and began chatting and knitting enthusiastically, comparing lengths, trying on their work, and admiring how a simple accessory adds style and sophistication to any outfit.  After a group photo, a much more appreciative audience bid us farewell and hurried back to their dorms, undoubtedly to complete their project. 

And so, the first ever Twinkle workshop held at NYU was a success!  Most importantly, the lesson learned was that a little hard work is needed to persevere through any endeavor, no matter how big (like starting your own business) or small like picking up a pair of knitting needles for the first time.

Keep checking back with us for the latest news on Twinkle by Wenlan’s upcoming knitting events.

I love sharing my knitting tales. My favorite is when I lost my knitting needle while I was knitting. That’s part of the reason why I started knitting with chunky yarn – it can’t be too difficult to find a thick #19 needle under the sofa.

This tale travels through my first trip to London and has to do with getting knitting inspiration from Notting Hill- the home of Portobello Road Market. I saw sheep in Stonehenge. And in  the Portobello market, I saw a woman spinning yarn from the just shredded sheep fur with an antique spinning machine. She wanted to demonstrate that the machine was still good. The final product was a yarn unevenly spun and ridiculously thick. I thought to myself, “What designs could best play with the yarn?”

A few years ago, I had bought a pair of extra thick, hot pink #36 plastic needles. A needle that size is normally used to knit an open weave design and to create airy lightweight fabric especially with mohair yarn. Miraculously though, it served the perfect match to this super chunky yarn as well.

Somehow, chunky yarn, extra big needles, and fast knitting all came together on this trip.

 

I later found some luxurious version of my Notting Hill inspiration using silk/wool blend

And later, this thick wool fiber yarn has been a perfect tool for when I host knitting class.

 

 

 

 

Restaurant Modern’s installation tops, the art of window dressing

 

Mike Kelly’s Untitled consists of found afghans and stuffed dolls. The artist claims, “The materials in this piece are not meant to suggest childhood comforts but were chosen instead of their formal elements- the afghans, for example, for their abstract patterns.” The artist works in performance, music, books, and installations. I’m not familiar with his other works; but this piece, with its colors and patterns, speaks articulately for the vulnerable lands under war.

 

 

 

In the exhibition, Books, books, books, books, books, books and books, Brian Bellott collected sixty-six children’s books of different sizes from different thrift shops and flea markets and “re-worked” them during “collage parties” with fellow artists. Every one of the books offers an independent wisdom and brings an artistic element to the collage. The exhibition reminded me of my art class back in grade school.  In elementary school, we were asked to make drawings for a booklet in art class. I made up my own story, so that I could continue on some rootless plot, while develop imaginary objects and characters every week. These books by American artist Brian Bellott speak to me in a familiar tone from my childhood memory. Viewers can instantly feel the intimacy.

 

“Handmade” has such a commercial meaning now that we forget the happiness that comes from making beautiful things with your own hands. Here, Brian Bellott had me cruise through pages of my personal memory – back when the commercial world was unknown –back when my imagination consumed me and my own art inspired me. Back then, creating was humble and shame-free.

 

 

  

All the books are displayed on a family heir loom table.

 

    

 

 

 

The content of each book is video taped and shown next to the table.

 

The day has finally come. It’s the last show in Bryant Park and we’re backstage preparing to ensure everything is ready by 6:00pm. As models slowly trickle in, one by one over a span of hours, we check them in and move them through hair, makeup, and nails as quickly as possible. Suddenly it’s 5:50pm and we still have five girls that need their makeup done. They’re calling first looks and all the other models are already changing. Will we finish in time? Will we make it? As these questions run through my head, the girls are already done and putting on their first ensemble. Someone calls out to clear the area of all non models and stylists. That’s my cue…time to fight for a good spot to stand so I can see the show. The lights go out. Then, the spotlight hits the stage and the music starts. As I start to feel the music, the first model hits the runway. The show flashes before my eyes as all the models walk out onto the runway to do their final walk. Everyone starts clapping uncontrollably, and I know the show was a success. It feels great to be a part of all the excitement

Model getting final touch up!